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Rope Maneuvers for Beginner Vertical Cavers
Single Rope Technique (SRT) is the standard method for ascending and descending ropes in vertical caving. There are several ways to set up your SRT system, but the Frog System is the most commonly used SRT setup. The Frog System is lightweight, efficient, and the most well-rounded for the vertical techniques. There are several techniques cavers need to learn to safely be on a rope. To start being able to ascend, descend, and changeovers are the most important. Following those, cavers need to be able to perform rebays, know crossings, and redirects to get into a little bit more advanced technique.
Ascending
Ascending involves climbing up a fixed rope using mechanical ascenders. The Frog System employs a chest ascender and a handheld ascender with a foot loop to facilitate upward movement. It takes practice to tune a system for max efficiency. Many cavers add a foot ascender like the Petzl Pantin to help with efficiency.
Descending
Descending, or rappelling, requires controlled movement down a rope using a descender device, such as a rappel rack or bobbin. Most caveing descenders do not lock automatically but require a manual lock off. It's important to know how to lock off a descender before using it. When getting on the rope to descend, it's important to attach an ascender as a backup and test your descender by rappelling an inch or two to make sure it's properly set up, then take off the ascender and continue the rappel.
Changeovers
A changeover is the process of switching from ascending to descending (or vice versa) while suspended on the rope. This skill is important if you encounter obstacles or need to reverse direction. Most cavers consider this an essential skill before entering a vertical cave. It's best to practice this technique outside the cave with someone who knows it well. Always maintain two points of contact when performing this technique.
Rebelays
Rebelays are intermediate anchor points that redirect the rope to avoid obstacles or reduce rope abrasion. Passing a rebelay involves transferring your attachment from one rope segment to another while maintaining continuous safety. Practice this with someone who knows how to perform it safely, and remember to always maintain two points of contact.
Knot Crossings
Knot crossings occur when a knot is present in the rope, necessitating a transfer of ascenders or descenders over the knot. This situation may arise due to rope damage or two ropes tied together.
Redirects
Redirects involve altering the rope's path to navigate around obstacles or minimize contact with the cave environment. This technique helps in managing rope friction and avoiding hazards.
Check out Derek Bristol's videos on YouTube on how to safely perform each of these techniques.
Vertical Training
To become proficient at vertical caving its important to practice these techniques outside the cave environment. Places like trees and rock climbing walls provide great options for setting up a rope to practice various techniques.
Climbing Wall Technical Practice
Climbing walls are a great place to throw up some ropes and practice techniques. All the techniques listed above can be practiced on climbing walls. Usually, climbing walls have established anchors at the top for rigging a rope. They also usually have bolts going down the wall that can be used to simulate rebelays or redirects. It's best to pick climbing walls that can be hiked to the top for easy setup of the system.
Rope Treadmills
A rope treadmill is used to practice ascending and build endurance. Some caves have a lot of vertical rope work or huge pits that require cavers to climb out of. It's easy with all the extra gear and the physical exertion that comes from caving to become exhausted on rope. Rope treadmills help prepare cavers to be ready for lots of vertical ascending underground.
They are typically set up in a tree. There are a few methods, but an easy one is by tying webbing to the base of a tree, attaching a micro rack to that webbing, threading the rope through the micro rack, and running the rope through a pulley attached to webbing that is tied around a tree branch high up. The climber gets on the rope end that is running through the pulley and hanging down from the tree branch. As the climber climbs, another person slowly lets out the rope using the micro rack for controlled friction. The climber climbs until the rope is at its end. Make sure to tie knots at the end of the rope so it doesn't accidentally slip through the micro rack when it reaches the end.
Gym Workouts
Functional athletic training is one of the best things you can do to prepare your body for caving. This style of training focuses on real-world movement patterns rather than isolating individual muscles, such as loaded step-ups, farmer carries, pull-ups, bear crawls, and single-leg balance work. It builds the relative strength to control and move your own body through technical terrain, the functional strength to handle physical demands like vertical sections and hauling gear, the agility and neuromuscular coordination to move efficiently through unpredictable environments, and the mobility to get through tight passages and awkward positions without injury. If you want to be a stronger, more capable caver who can go longer and recover faster, this is where to start.
Cave Rescue
Cave rescue is a specialized skill and requires training. The National Cave Rescue Committee, which is part of the NSS, offers great cave rescue courses. It's highly recommended to take their courses to be prepared to help in a rescue scenerio whetehr its yourself, a group member, or another incident where local cave rescue personnel are called on to help. Cave rescue usually takes a lot of effort and resources. Because of the extreme environment of caves, it can take days to weeks for a rescue to finish within a cave. Good training helps rescues be more proficient and better prepared for the unique challenges of underground rescues. Below are a couple of basic rescue techniques good to know for vertical cave rescue. All recue techniques should be practiced with individuals who have been trained on the techniques.
3 to 1 Haul System
A 3-to-1 haul system is a mechanical advantage system used to help raise a person or load with less effort than pulling directly. In caving, this technique could be used to haul an injured person or equipment up a rope.
A properly built 3-to-1 system requires strong anchors, correct pulley or carabiner setup, rope management, progress capture, and clear communication between team members. While the concept is simple, using it safely underground takes practice and experience.
Pick Off
A pick off is a rescue technique used to reach and assist a caver who is stuck, injured, exhausted, or unable to continue while on rope. The rescuer climbs to the patient, often on the same rope in caving, but ideally another rope if that is an option, transfers the patient onto their system, and rappels down with the patient hanging below them.
Pick-offs are advanced vertical rescue skills that require strong rope skills, good judgment, and repeated practice. They should only be attempted by trained cavers because both the rescuer and patient may be suspended on a rope in a high-risk situation.
Why Rescue Training Matters
Even well-planned cave trips can run into problems such as exhaustion, gear issues, injury, or other issues. Practicing rescue techniques helps cavers respond more calmly and effectively when something goes wrong.
Visit the NSS website to learn more about upcoming cave rescue courses in your area. We strongly recommend every caver take a SPAR course and, if possible, the other course offered by the NCRC. It's also a good idea for anyone going into the backcountry to have a Wilderness First Responder certification. These classes are held by various organizations all over the United States.
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